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share for the last time

10/10
... breakfast at 6:00, starting at 7:20.



Backpacks light legs and full of energy. ... . We face the small Eiger from another channel more 'to the left, with a goal' one step a little 'technical snow / ice ax anyway without affront. We try to make the climb as much as 'quickly as possible' cause the mountain above the wall and loads and we are very afraid of avalanches. ... . We leave the small Eiger and is now sinking a casino ... I have the skis and I think that would be a lot less work to proceed on skis, but for solidarity 'with Ivo alternative set proceed to beat the track.


Arrived pero 'just before the plateau, take off my helmet and I say I'm sorry to Ivo, but now I put the skis ... We come to the spacing Ivo canaleta a bit ', and skis, does not fit even crampons 'cause the snow and' not so deep that they serve. Ivo and 'away and I start to fly. The snow and 'a lot, fatigue and' a lot, proceed (without enlarging things really) sinking into snow up to my hips on a wall of 45 °. To address the next step is forced to dig his knee forward by a semicircular, and also removing the snow with the stick. With great effort comes on top, threw the backpack on the floor and filmed the arrival of Ivo in the meantime I have achieved. ... in the meantime started to snow fall and fog. Soon after will rise 'even the wind, so' when we take the path we are forced to use GPS. ... . Arrival at C1 at 15:40 and find a nice surprise: no tent. In its place a pile of snow ... I start to dig the tent but nothing. When it comes Ivo decide to take turns shoveling 15 '. Both want to keep us warm shovel, and shovel and 'only. ... we started from base camp light clothing and without even the front, thinking to arrive at C1, maybe dig a little ', and retrieve the material left there ... at 18:15 dug without finding anything. Now look at me and Ivo under the snow, wind, twilight imminent and all wet with a layer of snow on the hood, I address these words: "But now we die?", Then we consult a moment and decide to dig a Trun that gives us a minimum of shelter for the night and maximum, there is' the full moon, we can wait a bit to lighten 'the path and then, if we have too cold, we can come back down'. ... . Fortunately, soon after, continuing to dig, Ivo collides with the blade of a curtain rod. Screams of joy and happiness. Delve more 'than an hour to leave the tent but' and 'useless, destroyed. ... . We are about three meters in depth '. In the end, and 'came a pretty Trun.


(entry of Trun)
(the hole where it is seen from outside the trun)

... . We enter the sleeping bag with all the clothes we have on him and wet ... we put a bit 'to keep warm, but eventually the temperature is acceptable, although the snow that enters the entry makes me freeze my feet. 10:40 hours we say good night.

11/10
Wake up call at 5:00 but we linger a little longer 'so in the heat of the sleeping bag. ... . At 8:10 we start to reach C2. We are tired and a little 'damp, but happy to have it resolved last night. Proceed slowly.


At 10:00 the clouds begin to arrive ... needless to say, half an hour and time: visibility 'zero wind and snow. Cosi 'at 10:40 we decided to go back to C1. At 14:00 we shoved in a sleeping bag and doze until 17:00, then tea, dinner and bedtime. the next day we decide to leave at 2:00, as it brightens more and more 'or less at midnight, and then it is always a bad thing at 11:00. At 2:00

12/10
accurate are out of Trun.



clear skies and biting cold. Hours 2:20 departure. Ivo and 'already' from 10 'but in the short reach and exceed it. Power ski ... . I feel good and pumps great. The cold and 'intense and at times increased by gusts of wind that will become more and more' strong and continuing as we approach the day. ... . Moments' hard from 4:30 to 5:30. ... . The landscape and 'completely changed. There are more 'cracks to get around, now it' s a whole mass of snow with a few holes here and there '. ... .



At about 7:00 arrival at the point where the GPS tells me that there should be a C2, so 'I start to dig. Excavation for about two hours before arrival Ivo. His face and 'a form of fatigue and suffering. He tells me that he had problems with only their hands wet and light gloves. I think I was cool with me moffoloni high altitude ... . To hands and hard labor for the snow, I say that Ivo and 'What a beautiful bulldog. Just great. We start to dig alternating, having a single blade, but nothing. After two hours, with clouds coming and exhausted, we decide to pack them '. Budget: C2 lost with all the material for the high altitude and the deposit for C3 ... . The only consolation with an unforgettable ski descent from C2 to C1. 800 meters of dust fantastic. ... I continue to base camp, with the skis are more 'fast and less tiring, while Ivo decides to stay one more night at C1 a bit' with fatigue, but also because 'I tell' Then he wanted to stay a day only to absorb everything that had happened in those days, and the fact of having lost all that material without even having arrived near the top. But what most 'rode, and rode to me, and' the fact that it did not even had the chance 'to try.
... . At 14:25 arrival at base camp


13/10 8:00
The have gone from a piece when I decide to exit the tent. Just outside, my eyes go straight to the hill to the C1. I notice the tracks down by Ivo and immediately calms me.

for lunch will be 'here. already 'I missed ...:-)


(Ivo just below the Eiger small, at the end of his labors)

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05/06/07/08/09 still at base camp

05/10
Today it rained and pulled the wind all day. It 's all wet and then you feel more' the cold.

06/10
... . It rained all day and pulled the wind, but just so, and then to eight in the evening he stopped to pull the wind and began to snow profusely. ... .

... . Heavy snow fell during the night. At about 8:00 in the tent before mess and I find it all with the center bar and smashed all the stuff wrapped in a blue towel, and Domaijin saying "Phinish. So 'we have breakfast in the kitchen tent squatting, sitting on stuoietta Loche where he sleeps, and so' we will also lunch and dinner. ... decide papermaking with packs of cookies, then we take long tournaments broom.

07/10
... . There 'no way. The snow makes me happy. Today I have worn ski boots ... compared to high altitude boots, they feel them more than me 'my. Today I also decided that I will go 'on skis next time. ... . At midnight, just out of my tent, I headed to the mess tent and I can not believe my eyes: the mess tent and 'collapsed under the weight of snow. ... .


The kitchen tent will host 'for breakfast, then work all morning and we can install a pecie tent that can host a table and two chairs, as well as our material, so' we can eat back to a particular table and play cards more 'convenient.




8.10 this morning, pulled out the skis and that their maintenance and paraffin plates. Then he went to find the Chileans. ... . Talked about the weather but that 'it was only updated until Sunday ... . We made two calculations: if we start tomorrow, any attempt would be Monday '. I say possible because 'we have to see the conditions of the various fields and deposits. He has done here more 'than a meter of snow and I do not think mt in 6600 after five days of bad weather and strong wind ... .
Chileans invited to dinner this evening.
09/10
The weather continues to do a tantrum.


... . Today, surprise, coming two Swiss trekkers




with their troop carriers,


that up camp right next to us. a little 'company. Other activities' of the day: the unearthing of the shower curtain and shower.

What Goduria back clean ... . In the evening, prepare the backpacks for departure the next day. The snow was covered with snow all the facilities across the small Eiger, burying the fixed ropes and making it dangerous. We face a new route, more 'direct and now made feasible by the snow. ... . However, the program provides tomorrow c1, c2 day after tomorrow, the day after c3, then attempt the summit and get as much 'as possible, and then base camp.

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c1, c2 and c3

02/10 / 09
... . The way we know it well now, and also the time helping us. There seems to make more 'cold the other morning, but there is no' wind, so 'the snow holds well under our feet until c1 ...



the only thing 'that we come to c1 too soon. At 11:30 we arrived, we are pleased with our performance, but will now begin our agony. The sun beats down hard on an expanse of snow. Solar radiation everywhere: from above, from below, from all sides. Entering the tent is not talked about either, there will be 800 ° C. So 'we are sitting on our backpacks, pulled up in the buff ways hood with visor and a hat on his head, dissolve in water and contemplate the landscape.


10/03/2009
the morning I throw a 'look out, and time is not' the best. There are already 'the clouds that are proposed over the hill from the west ... not from the north-east where there's usually every afternoon. ... . We left at 7:30 ... the worst of times but for the moment 'is still acceptable in light winds. ... . at 6200 meters meet the Chileans reduction.
chat, and then leave again. After half an hour they get up wind clouds and snow. In just a little reinforces a mess, and now we are in the storm. ... .
Just past the ravine at 6450 mt, 50 mt more 'up there' our store. I take the tent quickly, Ivo the rest, and we decide to leave still there 'the fixed rope, ice screws with the other things. It's too cold and we get faster at an altitude of 6700 I think, where the Chileans have told us they have their place c2. c2 but arrives too soon, because we are only at an altitude of 6600 meters. Chileans have Banfi. However, in these conditions does not seem the case to continue. Widen the pitch and we place our tent. 13:30 pm we enter the tent. Cous cous for dinner.

10/04/2009
... . This morning program 'to go on until the conditions of visibility, we allow it, try to touch the 7000 mt. So 'let's start at 7:00. ... . On the positive side 'Tutone seems that my new warm and comfortable. ... .
we shall divide around two-crevasses crevasses and we lose a bit 'of time, then at 9:05 we decide to stop at an altitude of 6821 meters. Let's make a deposit. ... . We go down that starts to sleet. ... . At the height of c2, down, there are no more 'tracks rise, covered by snow, and visibility' to 2 mt. We are forced to pull out the gps and affidari it. Descending from c1 and the white out 'total. Just below the c1, in a place that we feel safe on the track already 'covered several times, I fell into a hole. For foertuna again with one leg and I can jump out. ... . There 'so much snow that covered everything. ... . Comes to the treatment after the plateau and we see that in some places the wall bordering and 'cave' by dropping huge blocks of rock that have actually changed our route. Landslides on the one hand and large avalanches in two sections. Now the snow and 'heavy, and in the last beams of the first chord of the small fixed Eiger, formed the base of snow under my crampons slips several times. And now 'over. The snow turns to rain, small Eiger, morena, and all drenched arrival at base camp at 15:00.



-----------------------
now present a brief recorded for those who have kept us company for about a month

(Loche, our cook)

(Domaijin, our chef and manager materials)

(Rodrigo, Chilean friend)

(Andreas, another Chilean friend)

Wheelchair Joy Stick Hack

deposit for Camp 2

25-26/09

Rest

27/09

... . We started as scheduled at 05:10. Breakfast starting at 4:00 and at 5:00 ...

everything already 'done it once and then we went more' I decided ... .

(path to C1)

arrive at Camp 1 at 12:00 am

we make tea, a couple of fingers and then decide to load a tent and snow bar (Ivo), and the other with the rope Matassone nails etc.. (Cala) and do a little way to Camp 2 to carry on with the job the next day.

... arrive at an altitude of 6000 in an hour and a half and of course came the clouds and a bit 'of wind and started to sleet. We make the deposit, let us mark with GPS and go back on our tracks.

28/09

... . 25kg backpacks. The snow is deep and almost always sinks to the knee ... proceed slowly ... we alternate every 15-20 minutes and we struggle like animals.

In 6450 we

vedercela with a large crack across to overcome rising ... we lose approximately 50 minutes to pass and a cold wind starts to blow. With difficulty we arrived at an altitude of 6500 meters.

We dig a pitch and you settle tent, Tutone and something else. Let us mark the point with the GPS then we throw down. It took seven hours to do 700 meters, while falling in an hour we are back at Camp 1.

29/09

... . We left at 8:40 and 2 hours 40 'are at base camp. We arrived at 11:20

To Congratulate Birthday

fixed ropes and C1

20/09

... . It 's impossible to take the normal groove bottom. We note then 200m on the right a fan of snow. The only point where there is an impossible to overcome deep end, or a rock wall on the seventh. So 'from tomorrow we will try them'.

Ivo

(from Base Camp)

21/09

... . Breakfast at 5:00 and then prepare the backpacks with 2 Matassone gfissa from 200m of rope, 10 bars of snow ... the results are more backpacks' 20kg. Party at 6:30. In an hour we attack the small Eiger ... . He and 'in front of the fixed rope attached to the harness that doubles as a safety rope. I parked the do 'rope and my problems because I' just left the Matassone turns into a single node of 200mt. The e 'worst and most' steep than expected, so 'we proceed slowly on a continuous gradient of 40 degrees, up debris and smooth rocks. Great bearers.

... . In the end all use a skein of 200 meters and some nails and ice that Trocchia. ... . We get so 'up to an altitude of 4950mt and we decide that there's enough for today'. A stock where we leave all the equipment ... mark up and leave again with the GPS down. 12:07 we are tired and beautiful starts to rain. We return to base camp into something less than 2 hours.

22/09

... . Rest

23/09

... . Our backpacks, even after taking the things left in the vault 4900mt definitely weighed more 'than 30 kg, and then the way described just two years ago by a previous expedition and' completely different

(the original path passed them 'in the middle)

... . So 'we used a lot of time and dealing with those crevasses sometimes retracing our steps ... There were even moments of suspense when attaversamamo precarious bridges.

... we lose some time. Where there are no crevices to overcome sinking into the snow to the knee. There 'a cloud and the sun beats down relentlessly ... we are tired and think that we will never get to the C1 of today ... at about 14:30, exhausted, we place a huge crack in the curtain / serac, happy to have arrived at 5400 meters.

24/09 (Camp 1 6810 mt)

... . In the morning, more 'relaxed, we are more' fast, and despite the fact that the wrong path several times between the cracks, only take 3 hours to cover the 400 meters in altitude that separate us from C1 ... Fast set up your tent, eat a bar, a piece of granite, two sips from the bottle that smell of soup with artichokes-the-pea soup, and then down 'fast. In 3 hours 10 'to tear us to CB bacon and cheese.

(Channel 45 degrees "canaleta)