To Congratulate Birthday

fixed ropes and C1

20/09

... . It 's impossible to take the normal groove bottom. We note then 200m on the right a fan of snow. The only point where there is an impossible to overcome deep end, or a rock wall on the seventh. So 'from tomorrow we will try them'.

Ivo

(from Base Camp)

21/09

... . Breakfast at 5:00 and then prepare the backpacks with 2 Matassone gfissa from 200m of rope, 10 bars of snow ... the results are more backpacks' 20kg. Party at 6:30. In an hour we attack the small Eiger ... . He and 'in front of the fixed rope attached to the harness that doubles as a safety rope. I parked the do 'rope and my problems because I' just left the Matassone turns into a single node of 200mt. The e 'worst and most' steep than expected, so 'we proceed slowly on a continuous gradient of 40 degrees, up debris and smooth rocks. Great bearers.

... . In the end all use a skein of 200 meters and some nails and ice that Trocchia. ... . We get so 'up to an altitude of 4950mt and we decide that there's enough for today'. A stock where we leave all the equipment ... mark up and leave again with the GPS down. 12:07 we are tired and beautiful starts to rain. We return to base camp into something less than 2 hours.

22/09

... . Rest

23/09

... . Our backpacks, even after taking the things left in the vault 4900mt definitely weighed more 'than 30 kg, and then the way described just two years ago by a previous expedition and' completely different

(the original path passed them 'in the middle)

... . So 'we used a lot of time and dealing with those crevasses sometimes retracing our steps ... There were even moments of suspense when attaversamamo precarious bridges.

... we lose some time. Where there are no crevices to overcome sinking into the snow to the knee. There 'a cloud and the sun beats down relentlessly ... we are tired and think that we will never get to the C1 of today ... at about 14:30, exhausted, we place a huge crack in the curtain / serac, happy to have arrived at 5400 meters.

24/09 (Camp 1 6810 mt)

... . In the morning, more 'relaxed, we are more' fast, and despite the fact that the wrong path several times between the cracks, only take 3 hours to cover the 400 meters in altitude that separate us from C1 ... Fast set up your tent, eat a bar, a piece of granite, two sips from the bottle that smell of soup with artichokes-the-pea soup, and then down 'fast. In 3 hours 10 'to tear us to CB bacon and cheese.

(Channel 45 degrees "canaleta)