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c1, c2 and c3

02/10 / 09
... . The way we know it well now, and also the time helping us. There seems to make more 'cold the other morning, but there is no' wind, so 'the snow holds well under our feet until c1 ...

the only thing 'that we come to c1 too soon. At 11:30 we arrived, we are pleased with our performance, but will now begin our agony. The sun beats down hard on an expanse of snow. Solar radiation everywhere: from above, from below, from all sides. Entering the tent is not talked about either, there will be 800 ° C. So 'we are sitting on our backpacks, pulled up in the buff ways hood with visor and a hat on his head, dissolve in water and contemplate the landscape.

10/03/2009
the morning I throw a 'look out, and time is not' the best. There are already 'the clouds that are proposed over the hill from the west ... not from the north-east where there's usually every afternoon. ... . We left at 7:30 ... the worst of times but for the moment 'is still acceptable in light winds. ... . at 6200 meters meet the Chileans reduction.

chat, and then leave again. After half an hour they get up wind clouds and snow. In just a little reinforces a mess, and now we are in the storm. ... .

Just past the ravine at 6450 mt, 50 mt more 'up there' our store. I take the tent quickly, Ivo the rest, and we decide to leave still there 'the fixed rope, ice screws with the other things. It's too cold and we get faster at an altitude of 6700 I think, where the Chileans have told us they have their place c2. c2 but arrives too soon, because we are only at an altitude of 6600 meters. Chileans have Banfi. However, in these conditions does not seem the case to continue. Widen the pitch and we place our tent. 13:30 pm we enter the tent. Cous cous for dinner.

10/04/2009
... . This morning program 'to go on until the conditions of visibility, we allow it, try to touch the 7000 mt. So 'let's start at 7:00. ... . On the positive side 'Tutone seems that my new warm and comfortable. ... .

we shall divide around two-crevasses crevasses and we lose a bit 'of time, then at 9:05 we decide to stop at an altitude of 6821 meters. Let's make a deposit. ... . We go down that starts to sleet. ... . At the height of c2, down, there are no more 'tracks rise, covered by snow, and visibility' to 2 mt. We are forced to pull out the gps and affidari it. Descending from c1 and the white out 'total. Just below the c1, in a place that we feel safe on the track already 'covered several times, I fell into a hole. For foertuna again with one leg and I can jump out. ... . There 'so much snow that covered everything. ... . Comes to the treatment after the plateau and we see that in some places the wall bordering and 'cave' by dropping huge blocks of rock that have actually changed our route. Landslides on the one hand and large avalanches in two sections. Now the snow and 'heavy, and in the last beams of the first chord of the small fixed Eiger, formed the base of snow under my crampons slips several times. And now 'over. The snow turns to rain, small Eiger, morena, and all drenched arrival at base camp at 15:00.